The Longed-for Tidal Wave


"And...where are you off to today?" Asked our Airbnb host as we loaded the car.
We had been in Kinsale, Ireland for a couple days. Kinsale is unbelievably cute, tourist-friendly, romantic, historical and breath taking. Despite all that...we had to leave. (We had "promises to keep...and miles to go before we sleep....") We were on a mission....to see Ireland...or at least as much as possible in 10 days.
"We're headed to Sligo!" We told our Irish host.
"O my, that is a long way!" She said in the same tone that one would refer to a trek across the Mohave on foot.
Five hours of drive-time later....we arrived in Sligo, Ireland. And the hardest part was learning how to pronounce the name of the city.
SLY-go...we are told....is its correct pronunciation.

                       

If I could, I would take a train. Ireland certainly has trains but not as an extensive rail system as other countries. They do have roads and they do have rental cars and I have a charge card. So we were off.

                  

We left Kinsale on the SE coast of Ireland and headed almost directly north and sort of along the west coast of the Island. North of Limerick it was time for lunch. Makaila had selected a Yelp suggestion and we ended at Cafe Fergus in the Oh-so-quaint sounding town of  Newmarket-on-Fergus. I am guessing it is named for the market or new market at one time that is located on the Fergus River. We ate lunch at a co-op style cafe with a great meal that supported Meals on Wheels. (It's everywhere!)

                   

We found ourselves in Sligo (pronounced ... Sly-go) around 5 pm....just enough for rush hour. And there really was one....and we found a remarkably large town of about 30,000 people.
Our ticket taker at the Sligo Abbey was a bit hazy about its size but told us that Sligo is an adaptation of an ancient name for shellfish people who lived here in ancient times. (I asked her if there was a thriving shellfish market around or lots of shellfish in the many restaurants in town. "No." She responded. I guess the ancients fished them all out.


True to our own style of keeping an agenda for travels....we landed in town....parked the car at yet another out-of-order Park and Display parking meter lots. (Which saved me a few Euros which was much appreciated later when I paid for the $45 dollar bowl of Pad Thai in the upscale Sligo restaurant).

                                 
We saw on our map that Sligo Abbey was downtown and we were off. The Tourist Board was friendly, the walk along the river was inspiring and the Abbey was ancient and fascinating.

                     

The Sligo Abbey was built in the 1400's by the Dominicans. It was destroyed by fire some time later. A war or two seemed to stunt its progress and yet it carried on. But the Friars got the message and by the 1700's they moved out. Lord Palmerston  restored it in the 1850's and today it is open to the public.

                        

The Abbey is but a shell of a building and yet it provides a fascinating glimpse of past life with its sanctuary, living quarters, graveyard and Chapter House. Granted....all of this is depicted in ancient walls but the descriptions were wonderful and one could wander and wonder about it all.

                       

Any time I can walk through an ancient Cloister, as we did, I feel that my day is complete. The sunlight struck the columns just so and the coolness of the fall-like air made pondering complete.

                                

A final note on the Abbey is shown in these stairs that were fenced off...lest some unsuspecting tourist crack their head on the low hanging stones....but spiral staircases exhibit such artistry as well as practicality. Form and function in one object.

                        

Sligo was a delightful surprise. I guess I was expecting a cross-roads with a couple shops but I'm told that maybe 20,000 residents are here. It's got it all....traffic jams, inoperable parking meters, expensive Pad Thai, a great river walk and countless shops and restaurants winding around the river. The great WB Yeats grew up around these parts and is buried just down the road.

                         

But lurking beneat the history of Ireland is the famine of the mid 1800's (The Great Hunger). I've seen countless references to it in the country. It's never far away from consciousness. Sligo has a statue that event and the resulting wave of emigrants from the shores of Ireland to places like America and Canada and beyond.

                       

Irish Poet and Nobel Laureate Seamus Heaney is also from this region. He even has a Seamus Heaney Table at a local posh restaurant. He seems to loom large in Irish consciousness also.

                                 

    History says,
         Don't hope 
                 On this side of the grave.
                         But then, once in a lifetime
                                 The longed-for tidal wave
                                         Of Justice can rise up
                                  And hope and history rhyme
                                                                                           (Seamus Heaney)

                                 

                                           Peace, Bob

                                   










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